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  Rechargable Camera Capacitor Shocking Device

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This topic was originally posted in this forum: Improvised Weapons
Author Topic:   Rechargable Camera Capacitor Shocking Device
killer_elite
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posted August 05, 1999 11:19 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for killer_elite   Click Here to Email killer_elite     
This device uses one of those disposable cameras you can get in the drug store for about $10. The camera uses a rechargable capacitor to fire the built in flash bulb. Before you take the next picture you push a button which emits a high pitched buzzing sound. When a little red light comes on you are ready to take a picture.

This entire capacitor and recharging system can be removed from the camera and used in a variety of impovised weapons such as an Atomic Joy Buzzer, which will knock someone on their ass.

Because there are many different brands of disposable cameras I'll have to generalize here. First off, these cameras are not meant to be broken into by anyone other than the lab tech who removes the film with a special opening tool. Therefore, you will have to use "controlled" force; meaning don't use a hammer or you will risk breaking the fragile recharging system. A better choice would be a pair of needle-nose pliers. Go in through the back, breaking tiny pieces off as you go. Do not break off the push button or the red light which function as part of the recharging system.

Sooner or later you'll run into the bread board and capacitor. The ONLY thing you want to remove is the capacitor. With wire cutters clip each lead on each end of the cylindrical capacitor. Cut each lead in about the middle, as each time you recharge the capacitor your going to have to touch those wires together again and push the button. When the light is red the capacitor is charged. When you are recharging the capacitor it is a good idea to hold it with an insulated tool such as a pair of pliers.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT TOUCH OR GRAB BOTH ENDS OF THE CAPACITOR WHEN IT IS CHARGED! BONEHEADS: IF YOU DON'T KNOW WHY, THEN GO AHEAD AND TOUCH THEM. I ONLY WANT PROFESSIONALS READING MY POSTS ANYWAY.

I will leave it to your imagination as to how to apply this charged capacitor to your own improvised weaponry. I suggest lengthening the leads on the capacitor by soldering on insulated bell wire (available from Radio Shack).

I also soldered on insulated alligator clips so I could fasten the charged capacitor to a glove I rigged as a kind of Atomic Joy Buzzer.

You could affix a bulldog clip on the end of a pole and then put the charged capacitor in its jaws to hole the prongs frontward. This way you could jab at the enemy. If you had a charged capacitor on each end of the pole you could swing the pole end for end and attack again.

killer_elite@my-Deja.com



Saiyan Knight
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posted August 06, 1999 08:22 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Saiyan Knight     
I have also took the capacitor system out of a camera. I like to use it to ignitiate electric blasting caps.


poison
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posted August 06, 1999 03:21 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for poison   Click Here to Email poison     
How do you make the Atomic Joy Buzzer? Im going to buy another camera bcuz my friend broke the chip from the old one. I have just the capasator left but the chip is garbage can i still re-charge it some how?
thanks
-pois


Predator
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posted August 06, 1999 08:00 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for Predator   Click Here to Email Predator     
I thought Capacitors don't need both wires in contact to discharge. with a big enough charge, they will happily discharge when bought CLOSE TOGETHER, no?


ezekiel
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posted August 07, 1999 07:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ezekiel   Click Here to Email ezekiel     
For a capacitor to discaharge BOTH terminals must be in a circuit , if only one terminal discharged the other would be left with a huge unbalanced charge - this won't happen as the imbnalance would stop the current flowing (not as simple as that but it's just a basic description).

You don't need camera capactiors , any high capitance one will do.

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ezekiel@cannabismail.com
"Hitler bad , explosions good"


Predator
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posted August 07, 1999 08:00 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Predator   Click Here to Email Predator     
I've just had an idea.

Lets take the charging circuit out of the cheap camera, and remove the capacitor. Then we replace the old capacitor with a rather beefy 500V capacitor instead? Feck the "stun", you could fry them!

ezekiel
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posted August 08, 1999 06:24 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for ezekiel   Click Here to Email ezekiel     
If you rally want to fry someone , attach a small motorbike battery to a neon light transformer , attach the two end terminals to heavy duty silicon cable , then to two copper rods - sharpened at the ends. Attach these together with a pice of wood. place either a special resistor or just a piece of carbon rod with a resistace of about 10M ohms accross the two copper rods further down (to stop the transformer blowing). You should be able to hold the wood that holds the prongs , now turn it on and give someone 750 000 volts in the back.
All this will fit in a record bag.

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ezekiel@cannabismail.com
"Hitler bad , explosions good"


VeHeMT
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posted August 09, 1999 11:50 PM     Click Here to See the Profile for VeHeMT   Click Here to Email VeHeMT     
What the hell are you talking about when u say the discharge will be unbalanced?

There can't be a discharge without a completed circuit, what Pred was trying to say was that there was so much energy from a larger capacitor that the electron's would gladly jump the gap ( the gap will be relative to the amount of power ) much like a tesla coil. Also the amount of energy from a camera's charging circuit will range be in the range of around 300v ( the ones I have are 330v ) and about 200 micro farads. This is not enough to -knock someone onto their asses- rather scare ( if they dont see you shocking them ie. from behind ). But it is still much more powerful then one of those piezo BBQ ignitor's ( god, the fun I had with those ).


The Juice
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posted August 21, 1999 07:06 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for The Juice   Click Here to Email The Juice     
I've just got hold of 3 flash units from disposable camera's. I got a rather nasty shock from one as I took it out! Because they're DC, you can't let go easily either! I've figured that the voltage is between 200-330 volts (capacitor markings), which is about the voltage of most small xenon tubes. To get them going, you need to give them a "kick" of around 4kv, then follow through with the 300v or so, there is a small trigger transformer on the circuit to do this.
As they are, they wouldn't make much of a weapon, unless you're up against a real weakling (the type who won't pose a threat in the first place). The shock will simply annoy a medium/large person. What interests me is the oscilator circuit, that takes 1.5v upto 200-300v to charge the cap. I might investigate hooking the ac from the oscilator to another step-up transformer to perhaps get stun-gun voltages out of it.

Another interesting thing, I placed a penknife blade accross the capacitor terminals to short it. After 2 seconds, there was a loud crack, blue spark, and 2 little dents in the knife blade.

Just thought you'd like to know...

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Jolly Roger
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posted August 31, 1999 09:03 AM     Click Here to See the Profile for Jolly Roger   Click Here to Email Jolly Roger     
If you really want to fry the crap out of someone, take the spark ignition coil off a lawnmower/chainsaw engine (or anything that uses a SPARK plug(not glow plug)) Take off the transformer, and you will be left with a small unit with 3 or 4 wires.
3 wires - this unit uses the shell as a (high voltage) ground. Cut off the spark plug clip and strip the wire. Connect a wire onto the part that mounts onto the engines chassis (ground) to another wire. They are your 'shocking' wires. Get a small 12v Yuasa lead acid battery or similar, and a HEAVY duty switch. The other two wires will be connected on the lawnmower/chainsaw to a small 12v battery - use this one if you like! Substitute the engine points (the switching mechanism) with the heavy duty switch, and hey presto flick the switch and a spark will jump between the leads!

The four wire version is exactly the same as the three, its bolted to the chassis instead of the transformer casing.

If it sounds a bit complicated e-mail me for the diagram. And don't touch the spark leads!



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